FREE PLANTS IN THE GARDEN THIS SPRING
- phoebesperrin
- Mar 29, 2023
- 3 min read
29TH MARCH 2023
HOW TO GET HANDS ON MAXIMISING YOUR PLANTS THIS SPRING

So it begins... The emerge of tender seedlings, fragrant delicate blooms and a window glimpse into the floral heaven as the growing season is set in motion.
As I'm typing this, the garden is wet and humid with a cool breeze. The perfect combination to start waking the world into growing Snowdrops, Crocuses, Hellebores and Daffofils (and irritatingly wet damp clothes). Nevertheless temperatures gradually begin to rise, along side the activity in the soil. Making early spring the perfect time to start moving deciduous plants.

Deciduous plants are those that lose their leaves annually. They shed their leaves in response to changes in the seasons, such as cold temperatures and shorter days but continue to make an appearance every year. Some examples of deciduous perennial plants include anything from mighty Oak trees to herbaceous Phlox.

Now, I'm not saying to start digging up Oak trees to change their location, as successfully moving mature trees takes an extreme amount of preparation, knowledge and understanding, along side mighty machinery needed. It is achievable and an incredible process to watch and be apart of, but with an advisory to leave to the professionals.
Winter can be healthy for plants because it allows them to enter dormancy, a natural state of rest that helps them conserve energy and prepare for the upcoming growing season. The cold temperatures also help to kill off harmful pests and diseases, making it easier for plants to thrive when spring arrives.

Therefore making early spring the perfect time to dig up, split & divide and move any herbaceous deciduous perennial plants. To divide herbaceous perennials, first dig up the entire plant.
Often when a herbaceous perennial has reached its prime and starts to look a little tired this is usually due to the lack of air, nutrients and water available within the root stock, commonly seen in 'pot bound' plants. Yet freely in the ground, it causes most herbaceous perennials to grow in funny directions, often a doughnut shape. This is due to the original root stock spreading out young and the elderly dying off for survival.
Once digging up the herbaceous perennial it is advised to shake off any excess soil. Now I absolutely agree with this theory, if you have perhaps perennial weeds, like ground elder or bind weed in and amongst the root stock. Or perhaps a particularly heavy soil which the plant is struggling in. But if by theory we're taking a healthy overgrown deciduous perennial that has been successfully growing, chances of competition or poor soil structure is low.

Therefore with the reasoning of no perennial weeds, pests & diseases or troublesome soil, I like to leave as much soil around the roots as possible. This allows the plant to continue growing at the initial rate before moving as the roots within that location have had a continual, stable and steady flow of air, nutrients and water, just limited to availability due to the mass of the plant.
From past experience, I find unless I know the plant history e.g. growth rate, resilience and strength (and previously mentioned issues ) I always keep the soil on to give it a gentle head start. As let's face it, it has just been ripped out of its home.
When moving the mature herbaceous perennial to the new location, prep can make a world of difference to the performance of the flowering season ahead. I'm talking about a clean environment; debris, stones and correct pruning. After all, gardens are simply a man made environment so why not give your plants all they need to survive and thrive?
But also by touching base on the availability of air flow, nutrients and water.
Simply dig the hole as necessary, when needed. As holes left exposed can cause leeching. Essentially all that time, effort and love you've poured into creating a healthy soil will start to disappear when too frequently disturbed. This can be through weather conditions and wildlife which many well known gardener have extensively researched the fact behind the 'no dig method'.
Like the dark & fluffy freshly turned soil? Add a mulch/ compost/ manure on top!
Once the mother plant has been dug up, divided, the new location discovered and a hole larger than the divided specimen has been dug. Check the air & water flow, this can be achieved by pouring half a can of water into the hole. The time in which is water take to disappear will tell you a lot about the quality of your soil.
Whilst the water is draining away, add a granular feed. I prefer bloody, fish and bone as it can be organically sourced and recycled. This will give your new plant an extra boost during the growing months, for healthier foliage and better blooms.


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